?? ??? ????? ?? ??? ????(hyperreal) ??? ??: ??? ??? ????(ÐÂÇø)? ???? ??? ??? ???? (Consuming Coffee, Creating Hyperreality: A Case Study of a Specialty Cafe in Fuyang, Guangdong Province, China)

? ??? ??? ??? ?? ??? ??? ???? ?? ??? ¡°????¡±? ?? ??? ??? ?? ???? ????? ??? ??? ???? ??? ????, ???? ???? ???? ??? ????? ?? ????? ??? ???? ??????? ?? ?? ??? ???? ??? ????. ????? ???? ?? ??? ???? ¡°??¡±? ????? ???? ¡°?3??¡±?? ? ?? ??? ??? ???? ??? ????? ????. ? ??? ??? ?????, ????? ???? ??? ¡°?? ? ??¡±????? ???? ??? ?? ??? ??? ???? ??? ???? ?? ???? ??? ???? ????. ???? ????? ??? ??? ??? ??? ???(foreignness)? ????? ???? ??? ??? ??? ????, ??? ??? ?? ???? ???? ? ??? ? ???? ?? ???? ???? ??? ? ??? ??? ????. ??, ?? ???? ??? ??? ?? ??? ????? ????? ?? ??? ??? ?? ??? ??? ??, ??? ??? ????? ??? ????. ??? ????? ???? ??? ???? ????? ¡°???¡± ?? ?? ??? ?? ¡°??(Âäºó)? ?? ??¡±? ????? ??????, ??? ????? ??? ?? ???? ??? ???? ???? ??? ¡°????¡±(¿§·È¹ÝÎÄ»¯)? ??(distanciation)???.

This paper examines the strategy of multiple reference adopted by Ounce Cafe, a specialty coffeehouse in Fuyang, a small, ¡°backward¡±(luohou) city of Guangdong Province. Through the multiple reference, Ounce Cafe intended to build unique space for coffee consumption and generate a ¡°special¡± consumer experience. The rich residents of Fuyang¡¯s New District visited the cafe to feel the unique experience, which brought them close to the ¡°authentic¡± experience of coffee consumption in China¡¯s metropolises such as Shanghai and Hong Kong. In order to generate the authenticity of the specialty cafes in China¡¯s metropolis, Ounce Cafe referred both to ¡°the West,¡± the origin of specialty coffee as commodity, and to ¡°the Third World,¡± as an allegedly natural, pristine place for growing coffee beans. The inner space of Ounce cafe displayed elements of the West and the Third World, designed to forge experiences of the West and the coffee plantations of the Third World, making customers disembedded from the slow and backward living of the small provincial city. This experience, however, referred to hyperreality rather than reality, as the actual reference is not ¡°the West¡± itself but what reflected in the specialty cafes of China¡¯s mega cities. I reveal how Ounce cafe¡¯s strong attachment to the authenticity of cafe space and experience of coffee consumption led to its overemphasis on foreignness, which made the coffee experience at the cafe more foreign than that of the cafe from the West, such as Starbuck¡¯s.